For the first two days I skied Whitefish, I didn't get a real sense of how vast and expansive it is, other than the fact I know I didn't much ski of the same terrain twice. However, on the third day, late in the afternoon I was walking in Whitefish town when the cloud cover that was recently hiding most of the mountain moved out and I looked up to see this huge snow covered behemoth that dominated the whole panaroma above the town.
I took some good 'in cloud' and clear photos that give a sense of how the mountain really looms over everything.
Think of the statistics - 94 marked runs and I mean runs, not little 10 foot cutoffs that get a name to boost the trail count. Hellfire, the longest run is close to 3.5 miles and you won't be straight running it so that's a lot of skiing right there.
In total, you are looking at over 3000 acres of runs, trees, bowls, and glades and almost everything feeds off from the summit. The Big Mountain Express runs you from the resort village area - elevation 4500' - to the top elevation over 6800', in less than 8 minutes. The only lift line I encountered was the short wait for start-up on a powder morning.
Dial Around the Mountain
From the top, you access the huge front face, or dive quickly into Marmot a favorite on the North Side, and where the Bigfoot T-bar runs on the weekends hoarding up a stash of powder on Window Pane and offering blue square trees. Also from the summit, you can head to Hellroaring Basin on the opposite side where Glory Hole is a local favorite and the Hellfire run is a real treat.
If you are puzzled, remember that if the wind is blowing, you head in the other direction, the wind blown powder stashes will be easily found in the trees. This is some of the best powder-in-trees skiing I've seen and for the most part the trees are well placed and easy to negotiate - no combat skiing here.
Safety first in the trees - always ski with a buddy or guide but be assured that if you are heading down you will will come out on a trail or catwalk.
Whitefish Mountain Ambassadors
As I always say if there are tours available at a ski resort that you are not familiar with, take the tour - it's like a limo ride, just follow the guide and ski. My first day at Whitefish Mountain Resort, I was fortunate to catch up with Head Mountain Ambassador Bob Kimball who skied me and a small group around the North Side trails and into some of his favorite tree stashes.
Bob showed us where the tall evergreens not only protect the snow from being blown out, but also capture the windblown snow. No exaggeration, you could spend days skiing lines in the trees and never cross your own tracks.
Over in Hellroaring Basin, there are double black chutes and black runs, but just as on the North Side you'll find long blue cruisers so everyone can enjoy the summit experience.
The Front Face offers the same variety. Off the intermediate Toni Matt, one of the area's signature runs, you can find places to drop into the Ptarmigan Bowl that will fit most any comfort level.
Spring Powder
The first two days I was skiing at Whitefish were varying spring conditions - more spring like as you worked down the mountain. My third day was a mountain full of 10 - 15 inches of light mid-winter powder. I skied this powder with a host from the Whitefish Visitor's Bureau who knew the mountain well. He led me into some bowls and faces and trees that were his favorites and which were obviously not skied very much by very many.
This mountain is so big and so skiable it seems every local and returning guest has their own private stash area. When I say 'so skiable' I mean that while there are some really steep runs and chutes - a few pushing 45 degrees - there are very few large cliff or rock areas that cut into skiable terrain. So when you look at the trail map figure you can ski it.
Another interesting fact about Whitefish Mountain Resort is that the lack of rocks and cliffs and the thick dirt and grass base bond the snow so it doesn't require a huge base to ski. Not that this is a problem when you average 300+ inches of snow and some years measure over 400 inches.
Off the Summit
Lower than, and off to the side of, the Big Mountain Express is the Swift Creek Express quad that serves a full blue square areas. This chair runs a half hour earlier than the summit chair and on the powder day I had a good hour to play and practice in new powder on the low angle terrain. A really fun time and all level of skiing abilities can be found here, including two freestyle parks.
Family Fun Time
Lower yet, is the new Base Lodge, laid out thoughtfully for the beginners and for families. On the bottom level is a Day Care center and a well organized rental setup that eases and facilitates the rental process. Parents with kids of varying ages and abilities will appreciate the ordering, measuring, delivery lesson planning system that gets everyone quickly on the snow.
Immediately outside the lodge is a beginner conveyor carpet and penned area that isolates and protects little ones and beginners from possible bumping and collisions. Upstairs is a generous size cafeteria and dining area that is well spaced and comfortable - no crowding and worries about getting spilled on. Just adjacent there is also fireside area where I saw more than one after-lunch sleepy head on a mom's lap.
Getting Here
When I first looked at the map I thought that Whitefish Mountain Resort is sure a long way from New York. Not true, and surprising to many, when you look at the flight routes. From New York going through Minneapolis/St. Paul and into Glacier Park International Airport - 25 minutes from the mountain - was less than 5 hours in the air.
Salt Lake City is a short hop and, bless the wild west, many come by train into Whitefish, a real railroad hub.
